For this set, you will need to cast the #301 Starship Wall mold 16 times, the #270 Starship Deck mold 16 times, the #302 Cargo Bay mold 20 times, the #272 Service Area Floor mold 12 times, and the #273 Pipeline Floor mold 10 times.
I cast these pieces out of white dental plaster. The casting will take the average person about 2 full days, and the pieces can be glued together in a few hours.
After you complete these, feel free to make your own custom pieces any size you want. The beauty of casting pieces is that you can always make more and build whatever you want.
When casting blocks, be sure to use thewet water method shown on the casting instructions page. These sci-fi blocks are very difficult to cast without air bubbles if you do not use it.
The first block shown was cast without the "wet water" method and the second block is cast using "wet water".
On mold #302, the most difficult pieces to cast are the barrel halves. I've circled these in red on the photo. The problem is getting the plaster to flow into fine grooves on the top.
To begin with, use the wet water method shown above. Pour a little plaster into these sections and use a blunt pencil or thin paint brush handle and work it in a circular motion inside each barrel half. It's almost impossible to get air bubbles out unless you do this.
To base these starship rooms, I'm going to mount the floor tiles on pieces of 1/2" thick polystyrene foam insulating board.
This is the stuff they use for sheeting on houses before they put siding on. You can get it at most lumber yards and usually comes in pink or blue.
It's easy to cut (with a sharp knife), and you can make pits and holes in the floor that actually look deep. For more instructions on using this for your floor, please look at the Starship Basic Interiors page.
The cargo bay set will consist of the pieces shown here. To build these pieces, you will need to cast the #301 Starship Wall mold 16 times, the #270 Starship Deck mold 16 times, the #302 Cargo Bay mold 20 times, the #272 Service Area Floor mold 12 times, and the #273 Pipeline Floor mold 10 times.
The rooms shown on top of the floor sections are glued down to the floor. The other wall sections are separate so you can move them where you like. When making new pieces of your own design, notice that the floor sections are based on groups of 3 x 3 tiles.
Power Terminals "A"
We'll start by making the tower sections. Glue together 4 badly cast panels as shown. I'm using badly cast ones because you will never see them.
Top it off with two crate halves.
Add the floor tiles around 3 sides of the tower. Leave the back side open for the next piece we'll make.
Glue the panel shown in the first photo.
Attach the panel to the back side of the tower. Add the posts on top of it.
Turn the tower around and add the blocks in the last photo to the front 2 corners of the tower. You will need to use a good amount of glue to make them stay in place.
Make 2 of these.
On the double pipe panels I just chose them randomly whether to use the straight or elbow types.
Use the same block types front and back on these wall sections.
For the double pipe panels on the ends, be sure to rotate them on the back side of the wall so they go horizontal like all of the other double pipe panels.
The top and bottom strips use the diamond plate tiles from mold #273. The pipes are also from this mold. The grate tiles are from mold #272.
In the center I've put eight doorway corners from mold #302. These will stick up from the floor 1/2".
Add the small rounded caps on top of the doorway corners.
The next wall section (shown below) needs these two pieces added on to it.
Glue together this wall section. Use the same panels front and back.
Add the pieces shown above onto the wall, and finish it with the trim and round nosed pieces on the top.
Make 2 of these.
Glue together two half rings using the blocks shown.
Be sure to paint the walls before you glue them down to the floor.
For painting instructions, please visit our painting instructions page.
You can see how I panted the conveyor belt and the diamond plate tiles on our Tips & Tricks 19 page.
Extra Wide Door "H"
Glue the doorway trim and corners together as shown. Glue the steel slabs back to back and put the teeth sections between them.
I painted the teeth a silver color. You can see how I panted the door on our Tips & Tricks 19 page.
Shield Railings "i"
These railings are made using the rivet floor tiles and the posts from mold #272. Glue the posts over the gaps between the tiles and glue on the post tops.
Paint the post sections the same color as you would paint the wall sections as shown on our painting instructions page. The tops were painted using fluorescent green paint.
To see how I added the plastic railing between the posts, visit the Tips & Tricks 19 page.
Spare Wall Sections "J"
These two wall sections are very simple. They're used to add walls where you need them.
Just paint them the same as the rest of the wall sections.
Control Panels "K"
Glue together this wall section and the one below. These photos show the front and back of each.
Glue these to each other with a curved wall in between to finish the piece.
Hover Carts "L"
Sand down the back of a steel slab until it's smooth.
Take 2 of the handles and break off the tips. Glue them onto the textured side of the slab.
Flip the slab over and glue a handle onto the top side.
Once dry, paint it silver. The spacers underneath will help it look like it's floating off the ground. Make 2 of these.
Floor Opening "M"
Take a piece of 1/2" thick foam as shown on the Starship Basic Interiors page and glue on the carpet tiles from mold #270. Also glue short conveyor blocks under the front from mold #272.
When dry, use a sharp knife to cut the excess foam off from around the three remaining sides. Make 2 of these.
The floor panel (which looks like it should slide open) is made using the 1/2" wide pipe floor tiles from mold #273 and the teeth from mold #272.
Glue two buttress blocks from mold #301 on top of them.
Glue the floor sections on each side of these pieces. The foam I was using was a little over 1/2" thick, so I had to glue these together face down on a flat surface.
The finished floor section will look like it has a mechanical door which has slid open.
Remaining Floor Sections "N"
Take a piece of 1/2" thick foam as shown on the Starship Basic Interiors page and glue on the tiles shown to make these floor sections.
When dry, use a sharp knife to cut the excess foam off from around the three remaining sides.
Both of these floors use the diamond plate tiles from mold #273.
The pipes are also from mold #273. The right photo uses the teeth and stripes from mold #272. Make 2 copies of the smaller floor section.
The right floor has diamond plate in the center surrounded by carpet tiles.
Barrels and Crates "O"
The barrels and crates are fairly easy to assemble. The barrels come in two halves that simply glue together. The small crates are in one piece and the large crates are made by gluing duplicate halves together. To see how I painted them, visit the Tips & Tricks 19 page.
The floor sections and rooms can be easily rearranged into any kind of layout you want. As long as any additional floor pieces are based on a 3x3 size, then everything will fit together correctly.
Here are a few photos of the finished pieces arranged in simple layouts. The Star Wars miniatures are from Wizards of the Coast.
For instructions on how the pieces were painted, please visit our painting instructions page. To see how to painting was done on the conveyor belts and crates, see our Tips & Tricks 19 page.