There are 2 kinds of conical roof molds. Both of these molds contain the same basic block shapes. Either of these molds can be used to make conical roofs for 3", 4", 6" and 8" diameter towers.
The main difference between these two molds is the texture of the shingles. One is a wood shingle texture and the other is a slate texture. If you want a flat roof that matches these conical roofs, the wood shingle texture closely matches mold #240 and the slate texture matches mold #245.
Mold #86 Wood shingle texture
Mold #87 Slate texture
The inside of the wood shingle blocks has a fieldstone texture.
The inside of the slate blocks has a chipped stone texture.
I had textured the insides of the blocks because it seemed a shame to have a nice circular shape with nothing on it. I thought that maybe someone could use the insides for lining a pit or well.
However, using the pieces in this manner is not easy. The diameters of the inner circles are not a standard size. I really wanted them to be but if I had made them in standard diameters, the blocks would have taken up too much space on the mold.
Also, I don't currently have any floor tile blocks with an open hole on them. You would need to lay large arch blocks on their side to finish off the top of the hole, and arch blocks are 1/2" thick (whereas floor tiles are only 1/4" thick).
Anyway, feel free to mess around with ways to use the inside, even if it's not very useful. The only reason I'm pointing out the texture is to answer the question "Why is there texture on the inside?"
All of the blocks are clearly labeled on the sides. The number on the side of the block refers to the diameter of the ring it will make. In other words, the block labeled "8" will be the final ring used in a roof for an 8" tower. The block labeled "3C" would be the final ring used in a 3" round tower.
To the right is a side view of the blocks stacked up to make a roof.
You will notice that if you stack up 3A, 3B and 3C, you will get a roof that will fit a 3" outside diameter tower. You will also notice that the width of the roof actually measures 4 3/16", which will make the roof jut out around the outside of the 3" tower.
Once you add the decorative braces around the outside, the roof looks fairly natural because all roofs need to extend beyond the outside edge of the tower to look proper.
When making a roof for the 4", 6" and 8" towers, you can either use the decorative braces included on the roof molds, or simply use the decorative braces that were included with the original towers.
The various heights of each roof are also shown on the right.
You will need to cast the mold 12 times in order to build one of these combinations of roofs.
If you only cast the mold 4 times, you can build one 3" or one 4" roof.
However, it takes a total of 12 castings to make one of the larger 6" or 8" roofs.
To print out a guide to glue the blocks onto, go to our Printed Plans page and look near the bottom for a plan labeled "Conical Roof Plan".
To use the plan, glue together a ring of blocks by lining up the inside of matching number blocks around the appropriate ring.
Do not glue the blocks down to the plan! Only glue them together on the sides.
If you do it right, you can print out 2 copies of the plan and then glue one of every ring together at one time. If you do this, it's better to start gluing the smaller diameters of rings first, then work your way out to the larger sizes.
Since you cannot glue every size of ring on one plan, you'll notice that I've alternated the sizes. On the left plan I've glued 3C, 6A and 8. On the right plan I've glued 3B, 4 and 6B.
You don't need the plan to glue the rest of the bits together.
Glue the rings together by applying a bead of glue to the top of each ring.
Set the next size smaller ring on top of it and continue to work your way up until the whole roof is finished.
Be sure to alternate the seams on each row to help hide them.
On some rows, especially the bottom of the 8" row, you will notice a gap between two blocks. All of the other blocks on that ring will fit well except in one place where the ends connect.
On the wood shingle blocks this is not a problem because you will not see the gap because of all the vertical lines from the wood texture.
However, on the slate roof you will need to fill the occasional gaps between blocks to give a seamless effect.
The easiest way to do this is to mix some glue and plaster together to make the paste. It should be about the consistency of toothpaste.
Use a toothpick, pick up a glob and rotate the toothpick to shove some of the paste into the crack.
You only want to do this where the shingle is split in two and not where two shingle meet.
For the photo on the right, I have stacked up some roof blocks into a 90 degree corner of Legos. I did this to demonstrate that you can use the roof mold to make a half or quarter roof if you like.
The only problems this may cause is that the seams will line up on the blocks which may make the seams more noticeable. Also, you may need to sand the decorative top cap or texture the flat part on the very top block to finish the top.
My original building instructions for the round towers did not include how to build a tower with a roof attached. Instead the top was finished with crenellations. I intend to add new building instructions on how to add a roof to each round tower.
Some of these towers may be built differently near the top of the tower so they look better with a conical roof. Below I have included links to the updated instructions. Eventually, all of the round towers will have special instructions on adding a conical roof.