Low Wall Dungeon Building Instructions

This article will show how to use the Low Wall Dungeon mold #350 to build various types of dungeons.

The wall height on these blocks is 3/4" tall so you can create a dungeon where the floor, markers and chips are easy to see while playing a game.

About the low wall dungeon mold.
Low wall dungeon building instructions.
Painting the walls and doors.

About the Low Wall Dungeon Mold
About the low wall dungeon mold.
Click on the video on the right to watch it.

This video shows suggestions and strategies when using mold #350 to design dungeons.

Low Wall Dungeon Building Instructions
To build the dungeon shown here, you will need 16 castings of mold #350 and 22 castings of mold #203. It's fine if you want to use a different style of floor tile, just as long as it is a 1" square tile

You will also want to print out the Low Wall Dungeon building plans. These printed plans show where every block goes.

Low Wall Dungeon building instructions.
Click on the video on the right to watch it.

This video shows how to assemble the blocks from mold #350 and #203 to make dungeon sections.

2. Before starting this project, you may want to print out the Low Wall Dungeon building plans.

These have the exact same instructions as what is shown below but will be easier to take to your project if you don't have a computer nearby when building.

3. You can mount your dungeon tiles on many types of materials.

A few suggestions here are cereal box, foam core board, 1/2" blue or pink insulating foam or corrugated cardboard.

4. I chose to use corrugated cardboard for the base but I should have used cereal box instead.

The edges of the cardboard can be cut at an angle so you don't see the corrugation when looked down on during a game.

However, the cardboard just felt really cheap, especially after spending a lot of time casting, gluing and painting.

The cheapness of the cardboard didn't seem to match with the quality of the walls and floor.

These dungeon sections are small enough that cereal box would have been a good enough support for the floor. However, if you intend to make larger rooms than what I have planned, I would strongly suggest using either foam core board or 1/2" insulating foam.

5. To glue the sections together, place the blocks down onto your base material and draw around them.

Slide the blocks to the side and apply glue to the base, staying within the pencil lines.

Then spread the glue around with your finger.

6. Place the floor tiles and wall sections down onto the glue.

Be sure to apply glue to the edges of the wall sections so the walls are glued together solid.

I am using a corner made of Legos to square up the room before it dries.

These rooms are so small that I did not bother to put glue on the sides of the floor tiles and it still worked fine.

7. You can easily print out these plans by opening this building plans pdf file.
9. What you see here are two different possible layouts that can be used with the pieces in this set.

Click on each photo for a larger view.

Feel free to make any kind of room shape you like. You may also prefer to make the hallway two squares wide instead of one square wide.

If you do widen the hallways then you will need more castings of the walls and floor tiles (mostly floor tiles).

Painting the Walls and Doors
Painting the walls and doors.
Click on the video on the right to watch it.

This video shows how to cut masks to more easily paint the doors and basic information on painting the walls.

2. To paint these dungeon sections, I'm using the castle gray color scheme found on the Painting Instructions page.

This consists of three steps:

  1. Applying a dark gray base coat of thinned paint.
  2. Heavily dry brushing a cost of medium gray paint.
  3. Lightly dry brushing a coat of light gray for the highlights.
3. For a faster paint job, you can always reduce this down to two steps of painting. Click on the photo to see a larger view of it.

The examples shown here compare my usual method of 3 coats of paint (left) to reducing it down to just 2 coats of paint (right). The room on the right was painted with a dark gray base coat and a simple dry brush of medium-light gray.

You can see that the 2 step method has less color variation but is less work to do.

4. To paint the door, I'm going to make a mask to the window bars can be painted a different color than the door.

Start by spray painting the door flat black.

You will then need some 2" wide masking tape, a hobby knife and a small wall block.

5. You'll need to cut a rectangular hole in the masking tape measuring 1/2" wide by 1/4" tall.

I've done this by flipping a short wall block (labeled "i" on the printed plans) upside down and cutting around it as a guide.

6. Place the little rectangle of tape over the bars in the window.

Then dry brush the door using the Earth Tone Medium color. You may also use any color of light brown to do the same job but I like this particular color for it.

When finished, move the tape to the back side of the door and dry brush that side also.

6. Remove the small rectangle of tape and place the large piece of tape with the window cut out over the whole door.

Dry brush the bars using a metalic paint. I prefer to use Games Workshop's Chainmail color.

When you remove the tape, you will have your finished painted door.