Hirst Arts

The best way to crate these sections is the use of speed molds. Once you figure out what style you want and the sizes, create some prime pieces to copy and make a mold.

Below you can see my speed molds for my egyptian dungeon. You can see the wall molds, Corner molds, and various floor molds as well as a small mold for special pieces. Notice that the wall pieces and corner piece molds include the floor tile that they sit on. This is a valuable time saver. Casting these molds one time creates almost enough for a small room. I have used speed molds to create a small dungeon in a single weekend. Although it is more hands on, this is much faster than 3D printing (which I also do). I do recommend creating special pieces in a similar fashion to Bruce's methods.
Here is a fountain from Bruce's egyptian instructions. One thing that is great about this style of construction is that everything is standardized and therefore compatible with itself. I will post some pictures of how I mount the pieces for actual game play later.

I can second this. I built a space hulk type dungeon, and initially resisted the speed molds, thinking the repetition would kill the look. But after only a few halls and a room, I was so frustrated with how slow my progress was. Made molds for the various sized floors first, and that was great. Then putting together walls got tedious, so I made those speed molds also. Even when the dungeon was done, I kept using the wall molds to quickly help friends build up their terrain collection

Final post on construction here.

I had a very specific requirement when building these dungeon pieces. I don't game where I live so everything had to be transportable in a car without falling apart or scattering. My solution was magnets. Bruce usually put a foam bottom on his pieces which is perfectly fine, especially if you use his building method based on rooms. I found quickly that all of the small pieces that I was using would easily shift during game play. I wanted maximum flexibility with the walls and floors so all of my pieces are small.

My solution is to put a piece of hardboard cut to size and a whole for the magnet drilled in. Here is what those look like. I made a whole box of them ready to go with magnet.
Here is what they look like attached
What this does is it literally allows me to hold the board sideways and nothing moves. Mission accomplished.
A couple of notes here. Yes, the board they are sitting on is a metal sheet mounted on a 1/4 inch piece of hardboard with some reinforcement on the bottom to prevent warping. I made several 2 foot by 2 foot boards and two 2 foot by 1 foot boards. This allows me the flexibility to set up a large dungeon but still take is all apart and assemble it. I assemble at my house, put it in the car, drive 30 miles, and plop it on the table at my friends place ready to game.

Also, I used weaker magnets for the flooring and stronger for the walls. This is not a cheap option and it does take extra effort on top of the effort to build everything in the first place, so it is not for everyone.

Also, slightly undersize the bottom pieces so that the pieces sit flush to each other. So I would cut a 2x2 floor square 1.75 inch by 1.75 inch to make sure it doesn't accidentally interfere with other pieces.

If you are lacking in the tools to do this you have several good options. One, just use foam board to set the magnets. Not everyone has the ability to cut the hardboard and without the proper tools it would be tedious. I have the tools so I can fill a box in an hour. Foam board is easy to cut with a hobby knife (strop your blade, its the secret to keeping a sharp knife).

Another option is to use museum putty. This would work in a pinch and is super cheap, but the pieces have to be set in place properly the first time or shifting them is a pain. I was going to do this and the first time I set everything in place and then realized that I needed to set up one to the left meant that I had to take the whole thing apart.

I hope this was helpful and maybe gives you some inspiration to try this method. Once you have the speed molds made, you will be surprised at how fast a dungeon can be produced. I was on a time crunch once and I was able to produce a fully painted 2 foot by 2 foot dungeon in a single weekend, from casting to fully painted and playable. (See Bruce's casting and painting instructions).

Do you find that the magnets come out over time?

Usually not. I use wood glue and I make sure I drill the hole slightly larger than so that I can put a good amount of glue to really seat and set the magnet. Make sure it is completely dry though or it will come out.