The Robot Molds
This page includes:
What the robots look like
What the molds look like
Should I cast these in plastic?
Robot assembly instructions
Photos of the robot factory will be coming soon.

What the Robots Look Like
Each mold will make four robots. Only one casting of each mold is needed to make the four robots. Here are some detailed photos of what the robots look like and their size.

The first mold is #328. Click on each photo for a more detailed view of it. The robots on the right were painted by Lee Kilvington. This mold has robots Carrier bot, Nail bot, Saw bot and Roller bot.

The second mold is #329. Click on each photo for a more detailed view of it. The robots on the right were painted by Lee Kilvington. This mold has robots Miner bot, Furnace bot, Security bot and Jackhammer bot.

The third mold is #330. Click on each photo for a more detailed view of it. The robots on the right were painted by Lee Kilvington. This mold has robots Electro bot, Smash bot, Hazmat bot and Lifter bot.

What the Molds Look Like
Below are photos of molds #328, #329 and #330. With each of these molds, only one casting is needed to make four complete robots. Click on each photo for an enlarge view.

Should I cast these in plastic?
The choice is really up to you. I think the question is "how much are you going to handle these pieces?" If these pieces are going to be used for display and not handled much, then you can successfully cast them using Dental Stone and the pieces will hold up fine.

However, if you are going to use these for playing pieces in games such as Robo Rally, then I strongly suggest you cast them in plastic. I have detailed instruction on how to do this on my Casting in Plastic instruction page.

Please keep in mind that casting using plastic will harm the molds over time. However, I don't think you will need that many castings of these molds anyway. Also, using spray mold release will help the molds last longer, but it will also make the pieces extremely difficult to paint. Mold release forms a greasy coating on the pieces which is very difficult to remove with soap and water.

Personally, I give the molds a good coast of talcum powder and then pour the plastic right in without using mold release. Below are some more detailed instructions.

1. Sprinkle some talcum powder onto the mold surface. Be sure to use plenty.

Use your hand to tap on all four sides of the mold. This will knock the powder around into all the corners.

2. Flip the mold upside down and smack it against you hand a few times. You might do this over a trash can so you don't get powder everywhere.

Be sure to get rid of all the excess powder.

3. I'm using Smoothcast 300 resin to pour into the mold. You can get it from www.smooth-on.com.

I mixed up about 2 ounces of plastic (1 ounce of part A and 1 ounce of part B). The white cup you see me holding is a 3 ounce cup.

You want to over fill the mold so that the top of the mold is completely covered in liquid plastic. Some plastic will flow over the edges at this point.

You will need to pour quickly because this stuff will start to thicken in less than 1 minute! You will notice that small bubbles will come to the surface. To pop these bubbles, spray a little mold release over the surface. You do not want any air bubbles on the surface of the plastic!

4. Then take a piece of plexiglass or hard plastic (like a CD cover) and lay it across the top of the mold.

You don't want any air underneath so you will need to angle it onto the mold. Put down one end and slowly rotate the plastic down over the mold face.

You will want to push down to squeeze out all the excess liquid plastic. Setting a 5 pound weight on top of it works well.

5. After the plastic cures (in about 15 minutes), remove the plexiglass from the top of the mold.

Then remove the excess cured plastic from the edges of the mold and pop the pieces out.

You will need to remove the excess plastic around the outside of each piece. This is fairly easy to do with your hands.

6. Since I did not spray mold release into the mold, the robot pieces do not need to be washed.

You can immediately give them a spray coat of Krylon Fusion for Plastic spray paint.

Once dry you can use your regular acrylic miniature hobby paint on them. Once your robots are fully painted, be sure to seal them with something like Testors Dull Coat to protect the paint.

Robot Assembly Instructions
If you want an easily printable version of these assembly instructions, you will find the PDF file here.

These robots are from mold #328
1.
Carrier Bot
You will need the following pieces from mold #328 for this robot.

Glue the two main body halves together making sure the top is flush. The “V” will stick up above.

2. Hook the legs over the triangle shaped posts and glue against the body. The feet should rest flat against the ground. Glue upper body onto lower body and push the front end tightly into the “V” shape.
3. In the righthand photo the front of the robot is facing you. Glue the head onto the round post and glue the hand onto the flat area beside the post

Glue the two halves of the bomb together and place it in the open hand.

The hand is shaped to fit the bomb exactly.

Click on the photo for a larger view.

4.
Nail Bot
You will need the following pieces from mold #328 for this robot.

Lay the head and engine down on a flat surface and glue them together.

Be sure that you center the bottom part between the shoulders.

5. Stand the piece up and glue the tanks onto the back of the piece. Be sure to center the tanks.

Glue this main body onto the stand. You will see where the round part of the motor fits onto the base. Slide the body up as far forward as it will go.

6. Glue the nailgun arms on both sides to finish the robot.

The arms have a recessed socket that fit the nubs on the shoulders so you can position the arms.

Click on the photo for a larger view.

7.
Saw Bot
You will need the following pieces from mold #328 for this robot.

Glue the plate onto the smooth side of the saw so it matches the back side of the saw.

8. Glue the face onto the back making sure they line up on the sides. Glue the tracks on each side sloping forward and center them as best you can.

Glue the back section on making sure the rivets are facing forward. Push this all the way up against the eyes.

9. Insert the saw blade arm into the top slot on the tower. You may need to sand the slot or arm in order for it to fit.

Click on the photo for a larger view.

10.
Roller Bot
You will need the following pieces from mold #328 for this robot.

Glue the back of the bot against the flat part of the top. Do this while setting it on a flat surface. The top of the robot will at an angle when you do this.

This will ensure that the back of the robot is level with the front roller. Otherwise the back wheels will not be level later on.

11. Center the bottom of the roller under the top of the roller. The flat part of the roller will rest against the back of the robot.

Glue the wheels under each side of the back body. Be sure that the top of the fender rests flat against the underside of the back. Slide the wheels forward until they touch the big roller.

12. Glue the exhaust pipes onto the back of the robot. These have a flat part on the base that will rest against the center tab in the back. Be sure these pipes bend backwards away from the head. Click on the photo for a larger view.

These robots are from mold #329
13.
Miner Bot
You will need the following pieces from mold #329 for this robot.

Glue the two halves of the body together. It works best if you have the sloped side facing upwards.

Depending on how well you scraped the mold, you may have to sand the touching faces in order to get both ends of the barrel to fit properly. You may want to test fit the ends first (shown in the next photo) before you glue these together.

14. Glue the teeth onto the vertical side of the barrel. Glue the plate onto the sloped side of the barrel. Glue the eyes on facing towards the teeth. Glue the tank treads.

Click on the photo for a larger view.

15.
Furnace Bot

You will need the following pieces from mold #329 for this robot.

Glue the front and back together making sure the sides line up.

16. Glue the head onto the body (there is only one way it will fit).

Then glue the four legs onto each side of the body. Try to get the legs spaced evenly.

Glue the upper arm shoulder onto the body on each side. These should fit exactly against the body and be a snug fit.

For the final arm, you will need to apply glue to the spots shown.

17. Glue the final part of the arm in place. The back of this arm should rest on the protruding part of the previous piece. The front of this arm should rest into the groove shown.

Click on the photo for a larger view.

18.
Security Bot
You will need the following pieces from mold #328 for this robot. Glue the cycle front and back together making sure the sides line up.
19. Glue the eye onto the front of the helmet. Then glue the head onto the body of the cycle. Make sure the head is as far forward as it can go.

With the body resting on a flat surface, glue the wheels onto the back sides of the bike making sure the tail light is facing towards the back.

There is a notch on the back that fits into the fender’s corner.

20. Glue the guns on each side of the body by applying glue to the places shown.

Click on the photo for a larger view.

21.
Jackhammer Bot
You will need the following pieces from mold #329 for this robot.

Glue the two halves of the body together. Be sure the large wheel and front line up correctly. It helps to set this on a flat surface while gluing.

22. Glue the wheels onto each side of the front.

Glue the body on top and make sure it sides forward as far as it can go.

The flat surface in front of the body is what the jackhammer will be glued onto.

Trim off the extra material under the tip so the end of the jackhammer is pointed.

23. Rest the jackhammer on the flat area above the main wheel and slide it up against the body as far as it will go.

Click on the photo for a larger view.

These robots are from mold #330
24.
Electro Bot
You will need the following pieces from mold #330 for this robot.

Glue the two halves of the body together.

Be sure to set this down on a flat surface when you glue them together.

25. Glue the top onto the body. Make sure that the cables line up from the top to the batteries.

When gluing the legs on, put one leg on each side, rest them firmly on a flat surface and position the body straight up and down until the glue dries.

26. Glue the tazer button nose onto the front center.

Click on the photo for a larger view.

27.
Smash Bot

You will need the following pieces from mold #330 for this robot.

Slide the scoop onto the body and push it back as far as it can go.

28. Slide the upper body onto the main base and push it as far forward as it will go.

Glue the goggle eyes onto the head.

Also, glue the large wheels on each side of the body and try to center them as best you can.

29. Glue the hammers onto the ends of the arms and try to get them at 90 degrees.

Glue the arms into the sockets on each side of the body.

You may need to trim down the bottom scraped side of the arm in order for it to fit.

The sockets are made for the arms to only fit in one position.

30. Click on the photo for a larger view.

31.
Hazmat Bot
You will need the following pieces from mold #330 for this robot.

Place these pieces on a flat surface and back them up against a straight edge before gluing them together. The back must be flat.

32. Lay this piece on it’s back and glue the body and head onto the base.

Glue the flame thrower into the socket on the body. The small tube should fit into the socket only one way.

33. Glue the round dial onto the right shoulder. Finally, glue the tanks onto the back of the model. Be sure that the round dial lines up with the back of the flame thrower and the tanks are straight vertically.

Click on the photo for a larger view.

34.
Mover Bot

You will need the following pieces from mold #330 for this robot.

Center and glue the spacer onto the bottom of the base.

35. Glue the 4 wheels onto each side of the body. Note that the front side of the body has the sloped area.

Lay the arms down onto a flat surface and glue the claws onto the ends of the arms. Center them as best you can.

36. Glue the head onto the stalk coming out of the body.

Center the torso onto the base and glue it into place.

There’s no exact position for this so just do your best.

37. Finally, glue the arms onto each side of the torso. Make sure they are centered and glue them at any angle you want.

Click on the photo for a larger view.

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